Written by Dr. Robert Shearman, turfgrass professor at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln
What is lawn aeration?
Technically speaking, aeration is the naturally occurring process of air exchange between the soil and its surrounding atmosphere. Practically speaking, aeration is the process of mechanically removing small plugs of thatch from the lawn to improve soil aeration. Textbooks often refer to the practices of soil aeration as soil cultivation (coring, spiking and slicing). The aeration process is also commonly called core aeration in the lawn service industry, and homeowners often refer to it as simply aeration.
What are the benefits of aeration?
Core aeration helps the lawn’s health and vigor, and it reduces maintenance requirements. The following are other benefits of core aeration: Continue reading →
This marks the first of our assembly videos, designed to help walk new Brinly product owners through the process of getting your new attachments set up and ready for use. In response to customer demand, we’re beginning with the tow-behind broadcast spreader assembly video.
When we receive calls about the broadcast spreader, they generally pertain to the assembly of the flow control housing. And usually, the link rod that connects the flow control handle to the gate has been installed backwards, which — at least at first — fits together just as easily as the proper direction. However, when the flow control housing is assembled and the user attempts to connect the link rod to the gate, it falls out because the hook is upside down. Note the direction of the bend in the link rod (approx. 3:41 in the video) to prevent this from happening.
If you have any questions, suggestions, or difficulty assembling your broadcast spreader (or any of our products), don’t hesitate to contact our customer service department at (877) 728-8224 or via e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org
From sowing to mowing, these are the high-points that will ensure that you have the most gorgeous grass in the neighborhood
Test your soil pH using a kit from your local home improvement store or garden center. Optimum range is 6.2 – 7.2; spread lime to increase, sulfur to decrease
Use the appropriate grass types for your region – Down south, use warm season grasses like bermudagrass, zoysia, buffalograss, and bahiagrass. Further north, use cool season grasses like bentgrass, bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass.
Overseed thin spots, any time – during dry summer months use a coated seed to help retain moisture (see Spreaders)
Keep mower blades sharp – visibly brown tips are an indicator of a dull mower blade, which leaves damaged grass susceptible to fungus
Never cut more than one-third of the blade off at a time – Use the proper cutting height for your grass – (Fescue should be cut 3” to 4”; Bermuda grass 3/4” to 1 1/2”; Zoysia 3/4” to 2”)
Mow lower when wet – helps increase evaporation rate and fight fungus during wet spells
Mow higher when dry – increases moisture retention during dry spells
Alternate your mowing pattern to help avoid creating compacted ruts
Remove excess grass clippings on lawn – small amounts are beneficial, large piles are not. If it cannot fall beneath the surface of the lawn, it should be removed.
Use low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring – while fertilizer high in nitrogen may show quick results, it prevents the root system from developing fully which can lead to problems later in the season
Don’t fertilize during dry spells – higher probability of “nutrient burn”
Water in the early morning – minimizes water loss due to evaporation and prevents unintentional burning. Watering at night can result in fungal diseases.
Water more thoroughly and less frequently – soil should be saturated 6-8” down. Check by pushing a shovel into the soil and leaning it forward. Shallow watering inhibits root system formation and promotes weed growth.
If the soil wont absorb water adequately, aerate – if using a plug aerator, break up the plugs and leave them on lawn so that the nutrients return to the soil (see Aerators)
If you’re like most of us, you still have a few leftover leaves in your yard that took the winter months settling into place. If they’re left there too long after the last frost, the once-pretty grass underneath will die and will soon be replaced by weeds. There are several nifty tools to help get rid of them including my personal favorite (Yeah, right!), the yard rake. However, if you’re looking for a higher-octane, less-painful alternative, a turf vacuum might be right up your alley. Continue reading →
Pull-behind lawn sprayers are used to apply fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides in either spot or blanket applications. For spot applications, most sprayers come equipped with a spray hose that allows the user to apply chemical accurately into hard-to-reach areas. Broad or blanket applications cover large areas quickly utilizing a wide perpendicular tube with multiple spray nozzles known as a boom.
Some benefits of liquid chemical application are:
1. The ability to change chemical ratios – especially in regard to fertilizers, whose NPK ratio (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) provides a delicate balance between inadequacy (nutrient deficiency) and overload (nutrient burn)
2. Precise application – spray hoses allow the user to delicately apply chemical in tight spaces
3. Faster rate of absorption – liquids are absorbed more readily by leaves and root systems without need to “water-in” the applied chemical; also results in decreased runoff risk Continue reading →