Benefits of Aeration

Written by Dr. Robert Shearman, turfgrass professor at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln

What is lawn aeration?
Technically speaking, aeration is the naturally occurring process of air exchange between the soil and its surrounding atmosphere. Practically speaking, aeration is the process of mechanically removing small plugs of thatch from the lawn to improve soil aeration. Textbooks often refer to the practices of soil aeration as soil cultivation (coring, spiking and slicing). The aeration process is also commonly called core aeration in the lawn service industry, and homeowners often refer to it as simply aeration.

What are the benefits of aeration?
Core aeration helps the lawn’s health and vigor, and it reduces maintenance requirements. The following are other benefits of core aeration:

• Improved air exchange between the soil and atmosphere
• Enhanced soil water uptake
• Improved fertilizer uptake and use
• Reduced water runoff and puddling
• Improved turf grass rooting
• Reduced soil compaction
• Enhanced heat and drought stress tolerance
• Improved resiliency and cushioning
• Enhanced thatch breakdown

The type of aeration equipment used influences the benefits obtained from aeration. Equipment with hollow tines removes soil cores. Equipment with open tines divots the soil surface. Aeration equipment varies in tine size up to 3/4 inch and in depth of penetration up to 3 inches, depending on the manufacturer’s specifications. Penetration depends on soil type, soil moisture, tine diameter, and the weight and power of the aerator. For example, tines penetrate sandy soils easier than they penetrate heavy clay soils, and penetration is better in moist soils than dry soils. In general, turf responds best when core holes are close and deep. A 3/4-in. aeration tine with 6-in. spacing and a penetrating depth of 3 inches removes about 1.2 percent of the soil’s volume in that 3-in. profile. The closer the tine placement removes more soil, exposes more soil surface area for water and fertilizer uptake, and it alleviates compaction quicker then the wider tine spacing.

Why is aeration necessary?
In most home lawns, the natural soil has been seriously disturbed by the building process. Fertile topsoil may have been removed or buried during excavation of the basement or footings, leaving subsoil that is more compact, higher in clay content and less desirable for healthy lawn growth. These lawns need aeration to improve the depth and extent of turfgrass rooting and to improve fertilizer and water use.

Intensively used lawns are exposed to stress from traffic injury. Walking, playing, and mowing are forms of traffic that compact soil and stress lawns. Raindrops and irrigation increase soil density by compacting soil particles and reducing large air spaces where roots may readily grow. Compaction is greater on heavy clay soils than on sandy soil, and it is greatest in upper 1 to 1-1/2 inches of soil. Aeration helps heavily used lawns and lawns growing on compacted soils improving the depth and extent of turfgrass rooting, allowing better water uptake, enhancing fertilizer use, and speeding up thatch breakdown.

Most home lawns are subject to thatch accumulation. If thatch is left unmanaged, it can lead to serious maintenance and pest problems. For example, thatch accumulation of more than 1/2 inch on Kentucky bluegrass lawns impedes water, fertilizer and pesticide effectiveness. Core aeration reduces thatch accumulation, minimizes its buildup and modifies its makeup by incorporating soil into the thatch. As soil is combined with the thatch debris, soil organisms are better able to break down the thatch and reduce its accumulation. Thatch accumulates faster on compacted soils, heavy clay soils and subsoils that are disturbed during building processes than on well-aerated soils. Therefore, lawns require frequent aeration to prevent thatch buildup. Most home lawns growing on heavy clay or highly compacted soils require annual aeration to restrict thatch accumulation.

When should lawns be aerated?
Annual aeration is beneficial for most lawns. Lawns growing on heavy clay or subsoils, and lawns exposed to intense use benefit from more than one aeration each year. In general, benefits increase when the tine spacing is closer and penetration is deeper.

Most turfgrasses respond favorably to aeration when it is properly timed. Both spring and fall are ideal times to aerate cool season turfgrass such as Kentucky bluegrass and perennial ryegrass. In most cases, spring aeration is performed between March and May, depending on the locations, turfgrass species and intensity of use. Fall aeration is done late summer and early fall, usually between August and November. Aeration before or at the time of late season fertilization enhances root growth responses and improves spring greenup and growth. It is best to aerate warm season turfgrasses such as zoysiagrass and bermudagrass in mid-spring to summer.

Avoid aerating when warm season grasses are dormant. This may encourage cool season weed competition. In addition, avoid aerating warm season grasses during spring greenup. It is best not to aerate warm season lawns until after they have received their first mowing in spring. Although aeration is beneficial for lawns, it can also open up spaces for weeds such as crabgrass and annual bluegrass to invade the lawn.

It is best to aerate before you apply pre-emergence herbicides, rather than after. Aerating after a herbicide application can reduce the chemical barrier formed by the herbicide, thereby allowing some weeds to germinate and grow in the lawn. Applying fertilizer after the aeration helps the lawn compete against weeds. Water the lawn after aeration, particularly in the areas where drought and high temperatures are common.

What can I expect after aerating?
Immediately after aeration, your lawn will be dotted with small plugs pulled from the soil. Within a week or two, these small plugs of thatch and soil break apart and disappear into the lawn. About 7 to 10 days after aeration, the aerification holes will be filled with white, actively growing roots. These roots are a sign that the turfgrass is responding to additional oxygen, moisture and nutrients in the soil from the aeration process.

On compacted soils and on lawns with slopes, you should see an immediate difference in water puddling and runoff after irrigation or rainfall. After aeration, your lawn should be able to go longer between waterings without showing signs of wilt. With repeat aerations over time, your lawn will show enhanced heat and drought stress tolerance.

Don’t expect miracles from a single aeration, particularly on lawns growing on extremely poor soils. Most lawns benefit from annual aeration. Lawns that receive this care will be healthier, more vigorous, easier to maintain and have fewer pest problems than lawns that are neglected.

Click here for the complete line of Brinly Tow-behind Aerators

CORE AERATION: The mechanical removal of small cores of soil and thatch from the lawn.

DETHATCHING: The process of removing the thatch layer from turf. This process is usually done mechanically with a dethatching unit or power rake.

THATCH: The layer of dead and decaying plant tissue located between the soil surface and the green vegetation. A thin layer of thatch is beneficial because it reduces soil compaction and it increases wear tolerance. However, a thatch layer of 1/2 inch or more prevents air, light and water from reaching the turf’s root zone. Thatch also makes an excellent breeding ground for harmful insects and disease organisms.

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Brinly BS-26/36 Broadcast Spreader Assembly Video

This marks the first of our assembly videos, designed to help walk new Brinly product owners through the process of getting your new attachments set up and ready for use. In response to customer demand, we’re beginning with the tow-behind broadcast spreader assembly video.

When we receive calls about the broadcast spreader, they generally pertain to the assembly of the flow control housing. And usually, the link rod that connects the flow control handle to the gate has been installed backwards, which — at least at first — fits together just as easily as the proper direction. However, when the flow control housing is assembled and the user attempts to connect the link rod to the gate, it falls out because the hook is upside down. Note the direction of the bend in the link rod (approx. 3:41 in the video) to prevent this from happening.

If you have any questions, suggestions, or difficulty assembling your broadcast spreader (or any of our products), don’t hesitate to contact our customer service department at (877) 728-8224 or via e-mail at customerservice@brinly.com

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1. Test your soil pH using a kit from your local home improvement store or garden center. Optimum range is 6.2 – 7.2; spread lime to increase, sulfur to decrease
2. Use the appropriate grass types for your region – Down south, use warm season grasses like bermudagrass, zoysia, buffalograss, and bahiagrass. Further north, use cool season grasses like bentgrass, bluegrass, fescue, and ryegrass.
3. Overseed thin spots, any time – during dry summer months use a coated seed to help retain moisture (see Spreaders)
4. Keep mower blades sharp – visibly brown tips are an indicator of a dull mower blade, which leaves damaged grass susceptible to fungus
5. Never cut more than one-third of the blade off at a time – Use the proper cutting height for your grass – (Fescue should be cut 3” to 4”; Bermuda grass 3/4” to 1 1/2”; Zoysia 3/4” to 2”)
6. Mow lower when wet – helps increase evaporation rate and fight fungus during wet spells
7. Mow higher when dry – increases moisture retention during dry spells
8. Alternate your mowing pattern to help avoid creating compacted ruts
9. Remove excess grass clippings on lawn – small amounts are beneficial, large piles are not. If it cannot fall beneath the surface of the lawn, it should be removed.
10. Use low-nitrogen fertilizer in spring – while fertilizer high in nitrogen may show quick results, it prevents the root system from developing fully which can lead to problems later in the season
11. Don’t fertilize during dry spells – higher probability of “nutrient burn”
12. Water in the early morning – minimizes water loss due to evaporation and prevents unintentional burning. Watering at night can result in fungal diseases.
13. Water more thoroughly and less frequently – soil should be saturated 6-8” down. Check by pushing a shovel into the soil and leaning it forward. Shallow watering inhibits root system formation and promotes weed growth.
14. If the soil wont absorb water adequately, aerate – if using a plug aerator, break up the plugs and leave them on lawn so that the nutrients return to the soil (see Aerators)

Scan our Lawn Maintenance Schedule for optimal application times for achieving gorgeous grass

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Turf vacuums come in push or tow-behind varieties.  They operate much like a household vacuum cleaner, sucking up leaves, pine needles, grass clippings, and other small lawn debris. Push vacs are made much smaller for maneuverability while their towable cousins are designed for larger spaces.  That said, the basic principles are the same for both types.

Functional Performance
Engine horsepower is of course the first thing you should check when comparing models, but this is not the only factor that will determine how well the vacuum performs.  The other key performance consideration is the impeller or fan blade inside the unit.  The surface area of the impeller and the speed at which it turns significantly influence the volume of air and debris that can be pulled through.  The video below shows a comparison of two different impellers’ surface areas.  Also take note of the diameter of the hose, as narrower hoses tend to clog more easily.

Ease of Use
In order to minimize your time spent unloading, evaluate the capacity of the turf vacuum relative to the size of your lawn.  Unless you have a very small lawn, bigger is better with respect to capacity.  And when you do have to unload, it should be as simple and efficient as possible.  Evaluate the dumping function closely, because what may seem like a simple flap or zipper initially can become an irritatingly repetitive chore if you have to unfasten and refasten several times.

The turf vacuum is an incredibly time and labor-saving piece of equipment that would make Tim “The Toolman” Taylor grunt with excitement.  It makes the most feared chore of the year more like a ride in the park.

For information on the Brinly PolyVAC™  turf vacuum system click here

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Lawn Care 101: Pull-Behind Lawn Sprayers

Pull-behind lawn sprayers are used to apply fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides in either spot or blanket applications. For spot applications, most sprayers come equipped with a spray hose that allows the user to apply chemical accurately into hard-to-reach areas. Broad or blanket applications cover large areas quickly utilizing a wide perpendicular tube with multiple spray nozzles known as a boom.

Some benefits of liquid chemical application are:
1. The ability to change chemical ratios – especially in regard to fertilizers, whose NPK ratio (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) provides a delicate balance between inadequacy (nutrient deficiency) and overload (nutrient burn)
2. Precise application – spray hoses allow the user to delicately apply chemical in tight spaces
3. Faster rate of absorption – liquids are absorbed more readily by leaves and root systems without need to “water-in” the applied chemical; also results in decreased runoff risk

When applying liquids, be sure to consider the daily temperature and wind speeds. Liquids have an increased tendency to burn plant foliage when the temperature exceeds roughly 85 degrees Fahrenheit. On windy days, “drift” can become an issue, so be mindful of your proximity to flowerbeds, etc. to avoid unwanted exposure.

How to Calculate the Amount of Chemical to Apply

1. Determine the Size of Your Lawn
(In acres or 1000’s of square feet; 1 acre equals 43,560 square feet)

2. Choose your Driving Speed
Ideal speed is between 2 and 5 miles per hour. Mark off 50 or 100 feet of yard. From a rolling start, time how long it takes your to travel this distance. Consult Table 1 to determine your speed in miles per hour. Do not forget your exact gear and/or throttle position to maintain this speed!

3. Determine your Application Rate at your chosen speed
Consult Table 2 for Brinly sprayers
_{*For non-Brinly sprayers, contact the manufacturer as these rates will vary considerably}

4. Multiply Application Rate by the Size of Your Lawn to determine Total Amount of Mixture Required

5. Divide Total Amount of Mixture Required by your sprayer’s Tank Capacity to determine Number of Tanks needed

6. Take Ratio of Chemical to Water (from the chemical’s label) and multiply by the Size of Your Lawn to determine Total Amount of Chemical needed

7. Divide Total Amount of Chemical by Number of Tanks needed to determine Amount of Chemical Per Tank

8. Measure out the Amount of Chemical Per Tank and fill the remainder of each tank with water, then mix thoroughly

9. If the Number of Tanks is not a round number (ie. 1.75 tanks), calculate the amount of chemical to put in the last tank by multiplying the Amount of Chemical Per Tank by the number after the decimal (ie. 0.75)

10. Dilute the last tank proportionally using the Ratio of Chemical to Water (from the chemical’s label)

Download the Brinly Lawn Sprayer Manual
For more information on Brinly’s pull-behind lawn sprayer visit www.brinly.com/ST-25BH-tow-behind-lawn-sprayer.html

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How to choose a heavy-duty garden cart you won’t regret

Many times, having the right tool is the difference between a simple task and a painful one. Imagine trying to remove a wood screw with a ball peen hammer, drive a nail with a screwdriver, or paint a room with a putty knife! 

The right tool for hauling any heavy or bulky load around the yard is the tow-behind poly cart, hands down. They’re easier on your body than a wheelbarrow because they make your tractor do the heavy lifting. Heavy-duty poly bed material makes them more durable than most steel carts, which can bend, rust, and scratch more easily as they age. When choosing a heavy-duty garden cart, here are a few factors to consider:

1. Dumping: Arguably the most important feature of any garden cart is the ability to dump the load. Factors to consider about the dumping are the release mechanism (how you physically disengage the bed latch), how the load is balanced within the bed in relation to the pivot point (this will determine how much force will be required to lift it), and the steepness of the dump angle (the best quick measurement of how completely the cart will empty without shoveling).

2. Capacity: This is not a simple bigger-is-better decision. Capacity can be measured in both weight and volume, so check both before you make a purchase. (Word of Caution: Some manufacturers are more “liberal” than others with their stated volume and weight capacity measurements, so it might be beneficial to check reviews as well as the marketing copy). Also, consider the size of your lawn and the density of the material you’ll be hauling most often to determine the proper volume (usually measured in cubic feet, heaped) and maximum weight requirements of your ideal cart.

3. Tires: Everything is riding on these (pun intended). The entire weight of the load is transferred through 3 points, the drawbar and the two tires. Tractor manufacturers generally state how much weight can rest on the drawbar, so the difference is all in the tires. Look at the tread pattern of the tire and the surface area that actually comes into contact with the ground. The greater the surface area, the more evenly the weight of the load will be distributed (and less ruts in the yard!).

4. The Poly-flex Technique: The last thing you want to do when comparing utility carts is to check the rigidity and thickness of the bed. Find an area of the poly that you can get your hand around. Gauge the thickness of the material, then try to bend it. Compare both carts side by side if possible so you have a direct frame of reference. The less flex in the material, the better.

Use these criteria to help you determine the right heavy-duty garden cart for you. Factor in any product-specific features listed on the box that may be of use to you, then weigh the benefits against the price. A well-designed poly cart should last you a while, so make sure you’re getting the one you really want!

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Grass Seed Planting Guide – BrinlyU

With spring only a week away, many of us are beginning to think of warmer temperatures, short sleeves, and green grass.  Soon, we’ll begin the process of reviving our lawns from a long winter’s abuse.  A healthy, thick lawn is the best defense against opportunistic weeds and pests.  Read this Grass Seed Planting Guide for the step-by-step procedure of how to seed your lawn properly.

Test the soil
Before beginning any project, we want to quickly assess the current situation.  Seeding a lawn is no different, so we begin by testing the soil’s pH level.  This can be done by using a kit or meter available at any garden shop or home improvement center.  The soil should be relatively neutral, somewhere between 6.5 and 7.5.  If the number is low, the soil is too acidic and must be adjusted by adding lime.  If the number is high, the soil is too alkaline and can be adjusted by adding peat moss or sulfur.

Choose the right seed
After testing and correcting the soil’s pH, we must select the proper seed.  In the diagram below, you’ll notice 2 zones.  The lower zone is conducive to warm-season grasses like Bahia, Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Zoysia.  These grasses prefer temperatures well into the 80’s, and go dormant during the fall and winter seasons.  They have wide blades and can be mowed shorter than cool-season grasses.  The best time to plant warm-season grasses is in late spring, long after the last frost has fallen.

The upper zone is more appropriate for cool-season grasses, which are best planted in late summer or early fall.  If necessary, cool-season grasses can be planted in the early spring.  These grasses have longer, thinner blades and include Bentgrass, Bluegrass, Fescues, and Ryegrass.

Increase your germination rate
When overseeding an existing lawn, you want to mow on a slightly lower setting than usual, as this will help more seed reach the ground.  Next, use an aerator to perforate the top layer of soil.  These holes will not only serve as catchcups for the seed to increase germination rate, but it will also strengthen the existing grass by enabling more air, nutrients, and water to reach the root system.

For maximum efficiency, use a combination aerator-spreader to both aerate and spread seed simultaneously.  Make two perpendicular passes over the area for well-balanced coverage and to minimize any visible inconsistencies.  After spreading, you may want to apply a topdressing material to increase germination rate and help retain moisture.  A quick pass with a lightly-filled lawn roller will ensure that the seeds are in direct contact with the soil.

Finally, water!  You’ll want to keep the top inch of soil wet until the seeds germinate, which may mean watering 2 or 3 times a day.  A general rule of thumb is to keep the top layer of soil moist until the seedlings are 2 inches tall or 2 weeks old.  Then gradually decrease watering frequency as they mature.  That way, they’ll be nice and strong – hungry for their first round of (half-strength) fertilizer at week 5!

What do you think of this grass seed planting guide? Leave your comments below

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In order to ensure the proper application rates, we must validate our fertilizer spreader settings by accurately calibrating the spreader.

Optimum Spreading Speed = 3mph
Because most broadcast spreaders are wheel-driven, the speed at which you walk significantly affects the spread of the material.  Walking slower causes the spinner to rotate more slowly, resulting in a narrow, heavy spread pattern.  Walking faster causes the spinner to rotate more quickly, resulting in a wider, lighter spread pattern.  Speed consistency is the key to precise application.

In order to determine your walking speed, mark off a distance of 40’ on your lawn.  Pushing your spreader (with the hopper closed), time yourself walking this 40’ section.  A time of 9 seconds indicates that you are walking at 3 miles per hour, which is the optimum spreading speed.  Adjust your pace until you can walk the 40’ in 9 seconds with consistency.

Determine effective spread width
After “calibrating” your foot speed, we need to determine the effective coverage width of your spreader.  On a paved surface, preferably at least 14’ in width, fill your spreader approximately halfway with the desired material.  Set the dial to setting 5 (or about halfway) and walk a short distance at 3mph.

Mark the point on each side where the material begins to thin out.  Measure the distance between these two points – this is your effective spread width(W).  When spreading, you’ll want to overlap the sections where the spread pattern begins to thin out to ensure even coverage and to avoid a streaking or striping effect.  After you get done, sweep up the material to avoid the possibility of affecting nearby water sources.

The calibration process
On the bag of material, you will find instructions stating the weight of material to apply per 1000 square feet.  This is the number of pounds of material that we want to evenly apply over a 1000 square foot area.  In order to determine 1000 square feet of spreading area, divide 1000 by your effective spread width(W).  This will be the length of your calibration area(L). Find an area of pavement that is at least this distance in length(L) and at least twice as wide as your effective spread width(W), and ensure that the area is clear of rocks and other debris.

Fill your hopper approximately halfway, then set your dial to setting number 3.  Open the hopper and walk the length of the calibration area at 3mph.  Sweep up the material and weigh it, being sure that no rocks are accidentally collected.  If the weight is higher than the number listed on the bag, decrease your dial setting.  If the weight is lower than the number listed on the bag, increase your dial setting.  Repeat this process until your ending weight matches the amount recommended on the bag.

Your spreader is now properly calibrated!  You have validated your fertilizer spreader settings and now you can spread material without all the guesswork and ensure consistently beautiful results every time.  Click here for information about Spyker Spreaders’ line of elite professional-grade broadcast spreaders.

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Thatch is made of up old grass clippings, dead roots, leaves and other small organic debris.  It builds up in layers underneath your lawn, on top of the soil.  Good lawn dethatchers will clear this layer away allowing water, nutrients, and air to reach the soil.

Take a small plug of your lawn from an inconspicuous area using a hand spade.  If you see more than a half-inch of thatch, your lawn could really benefit from dethatching.  Dethatching is accomplished easily by attaching a pull-behind unit to your lawn tractor or with an optional kit added to the front of your lawn sweeper.

When do I need to use a dethatcher?
Dethatch at least once a year in early spring to help prevent disease.  A second dethatching in the fall helps maintain a healthy green lawn.  Dethatch after watering or after a little rainfall since moist thatch is easier to remove.  Don’t dethatch during the dry summer months because this could overexpose the roots; dethatching in spring insures maximum growth potential.

How do I use a dethatcher?
Dethatching is most effective when the tines are not impeded by surface debris or soil clumps.  For best results before dethatching, use a lawn roller to level out bumps and crevices.  Mow grass and then remove large leaves and sticks using a lawn sweeper or vacuum.

After attaching the lawn dethatcher to your riding lawnmower, make two perpendicular passes – being sure to overlap each time.  Sweep up loosened thatch with a rake or with a lawn sweeper or vacuum for large areas.

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Timing
Rolling should be done on an “as needed” basis.  Some recommend a regular rolling on a biannual basis to avoid over-compaction.   Achieve best results when soil is damp, but not completely saturated.  Decrease frequency with soils higher in clay content.

Seeding
Simply spreading grass seed on top of soil or an existing lawn produces a poor germination rate.  In order to increase the rate of germination, begin with a light watering just prior to seeding.  Fill your lawn roller to approximately ¼ capacity with water or sand, and only roll over each area one time.

Laying Sod
Before laying sod, aeration is important.  This can be accomplished with a lawn aerator (spike or plug), or by lightly tilling the soil.  Be sure that the lawn is clear of any debris including rocks, sticks, and trash, which create a barrier that prevents the sod from taking root.  Lightly water the prepared soil before laying the down the sod.  Immediately roll the newly-placed sod using a moderate weight, then follow with another light watering.

Leveling
Uneven bumps and depressions can be frustrating, creating trip hazards and causing unnecessary difficulty when mowing.  Make your lawn manageable, useable, and beautiful by adding or removing soil and rolling the area to smooth it out.    First, take a carpet knife and make a delicate, vertical incision around the affected area.  For bumps, gently remove a few inches of the soil around the edge.  For depressions, add additional soil in small amounts.  Lightly water and roll; repeat periodically as needed.

Other lawn rolling applications:
Flattening mole tunnels
Frost heaving
Professional-looking striping after mowing
Improving lawn drainage

Visit Brinly.com for product-specific information

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